To Shelburne Town NS: Sat 10 Jun - Dark, Damp, Friendly, Finally

We approached the entrance to Shelburne Harbor in thick damp fog and brisk southerly winds near midnight Friday. Off Cape Negro I picked up an outbound radar target who identified himself as fishing vessel Nanook and advised that there was no other outbound traffic between our positions and Shelburne Town, approximately 20 miles farther up. Three hours later at 0315, proceeding slowly under double-reefed main and slow diesel power in zero visibility with the wind astern at 15 to 18 knots, I encountered additional radar targets near McNutts Island to port. I was unable to raise the largest of these, who was probably f/v Nanook, busily engaged. The remaining "targets" also did not respond to VHF calls, but this was probably because they were in fact fishing buoys marking aquaculture gear, as I shortly discovered with our high intensity searchlight.

The main was handed off Sandy Point at 0400 and I noticed that we were gradually sailing out of the fog as we moved inland. This was a welcome sight after several days of no visibility, but it was still quite dark and a close watch was kept on nearby objects, moving or not. I called Canadian Coast Guard on my new international cell phone for clearance instructions, and they provided a telephone number for calling Customs directly. I decided to hold off on the call until we were secure further up harbor. This we soon were, picking up a mooring off the Shelburne Harbor Yacht Club (photo at left) at 0510 Atlantic Standard Time. We'd arrived safe and sound, but tired and damp, somewhat pleased with the boat's performance. However based on the "rules of sailing," the fun was just beginning.

After reviewing my information and confirming details of earlier visits to the Province by Kerry Deare, Customs decided that a physical vessel inspection was a good idea. This meant I'd have to go alongside at SHYC (photo at right) for boarding. I did so at 0630 and waited for Customs' scheduled arrival at 0900. Meanwhile the wind, previously docile, veered into the WSW and began to build. This meant that Kerry Deare, initially quite comfortable on the float, became pinned by the increasing winds. As the winds built into the twenties things were getting awkward. and by 0930 when Customs had still not arrived, the wind had arrived and was gusting to the low thirties. Since I did not have the option to move away from danger on the float, I spent this period of my remaining life contemplating the forthcoming tragic ending to an otherwise fine passage. We were going to die by sinking, next to a dock within sight of a safe haven, because (you guessed it) the captain must go down with the ship. I couldn't remember the exact phrasing but it went something like that.

However catastrophe was not on the agenda. Customs arrived and delivered a professional and friendly performance. I next enlisted about 10 club members who man-handled Kerry Deare off the float so I could return to a heavy and secure mooring in the harbor, clean up somewhat, and row in to visit my old friends Charlie and Kim Arcon and their 3 children, all of whom live in a historic house on the Sheburne waterfront. Our loud and chaotic reunion (photo at left) after an 8 year hiatus was exactly what I needed to feel welcomed back to this magic place in this wonderful part of the world.

Approaching Cape Sable: 09 Jul - Fog and More Fog, Still Sailing

Friday dawned (I'm almost sure there was one but it was not at all visible) with good sailing conditions but little opportunity to observe them first hand. We were finally captives of the legendary Canadian Maritime weather: a cold damp fog had lodged itself somewhere in our bone marrow and was setting up camp. The 0910 log entry reads: "Fog all day since first light, vis ~ 100 yds at best."

Still we were holding the desired course and speed. All that was missing was a hot meal, so I conjured up the "Six Egg Non-Omelet" solution. This breakfast was my first hot meal since leaving Hull. While I'd been eating enough to stave off anorexia, I hadn't been able to settle into a seagoing routine for the first day and a half or so. It's always this way offshore initially so I endure. Now I was past that stage and into the routine.

By 0945 we'd sailed 200 NM from Hull and had 80 NM remaining to Shelburne, with the log proclaiming we were "making good time." Visibility was essentially zero so with little else to do I shifted into culinary mode and started cooking anything within reach. The day's run at 1330 was equal to Day One - another 110 NM. However we'd now sailed into calm winds and seas and continued on with the Volvo just ticking over. Shortly we were back sailing once again. This cycle was repeated several times.

It's often true that sailing saves the best surprises for last few miles, and this leg was no exception. At 1630 while approaching Cape Sable, the southwest tip of Nova Scotia, we found ourselves doing battle with an opposing current (sailors call it a "head tide") of more than 2.5 knots. This meant no matter how well we sailed, we could make only slow forward progress. There is really no solution to this issue on a leg of this length. One soldiers on. The consoling factor was that we had plenty of time to kill and slowing down would help avoid too early a landfall. Daylight often means safety, even if one can't see it. Then the weather gods showed their hole cards and we discovered we'd been dealt rain squalls and gusty conditions. We got a taste of everything except good visibility. The radar showed multiple targets who did not come up on VHF, probably because they were fishermen working their nets and traps. Then on radar I picked up the RACON on Cape Sable light. This "signature" indicated with absolute authority that we really did know where we were, or more importantly where we weren't.

Just before midnight I handed the Genoa and engaged the Volvo. The wind was directly astern so I used the double-reefed main and a bit of engine to keep us going in the right direction. The reason for this tactic was that strong tide rips around Cape Sable produce a bumpy and dangerous ride and there wasn't sufficient wind to rely entirely on the sails and still avoid difficulty. We tried several combinations of sail trim, engine speed, wind angle, etc., and bounced along until finally we reached smoother water off Cape Negro near the mouth of Shelburne Harbor.

We were now officially in Nova Scotia waters and quite close to our goal as we began our last day offshore.

Gulf of Maine: 08 Jul - Another Day of Good Fortune

We passed the darkness without incident, still "enduring" ideal conditions. The seas seemed smoother this second day at sea although there were many changes from one, to two, to no reefs as we proceeded. By 0830 we had daylight and 203 NM to Shelburne. A half hour later in light airs we resumed motorsailing into smooth seas for the next few hours, and at 1330 we passed 24 hours at sea with a day's run of 110 NM. Not too shabby for so little (apparent) effort.

By early afternoon we were once again reefed down for comfort and making progress, passing the halfway point of the leg at about 1950. During the entire day we "spoke" only a single AIS target, a large cargo vessel anchored in the middle of the Gulf of Maine for reasons not entirely apparent. AIS is an electronic system that allows ships to broadcast positional and other information to nearby vessels for safey purposes. It complements radar and in some cases provides information not available from either radar or GPS alone.

Our time offshore was so far characterized by excellent visibility, but this would soon change as we approached the Canadian Maritimes and colder water.

Gulf of Maine: 07 Jul - A Light Touch

We departed Hull YC at 1330, intending a 280 NM leg to Shelburne, Nova Scotia. I am familiar with Shelburne Town and have made the jump from Provincetown MA to Shelburne twice. The leg from Hull is about 50 NM longer and will probably be the longest on this cruise.

We motorsailed comfortably into a light headwind until 1900 when we set the # 2 Genoa (130%) and were able to lay 090 M, due east (magnetically speaking), and our desired course to Brazil Rock off Cape Sable, Nova Scotia. Brazil rock isn't in Brazil, but it's the standard landmark when approaching Nova Scotia from the west. An hour earlier we'd encountered a somewhat unusual two-masted steam yacht about 90 feet on deck (left photo) who crossed us right to left (that is, he was the stand-on vessel). Strangely he gave little or no radar image, and I was almost surprised by his appearance. I politely dipped under his stern and continued on, neither vessel formally acknowledging the other.

By 1945 we had picture-perfect sailing: the self-steering windvane was doing all the work as we close reached on starboard tack into S winds of 8 to 12 knots, laying our course and making 4.8 knots over the bottom (photo at right). Were we to maintain this speed we would arrive in Shelburne much too early for both daylight visibility and for customs, but it was too soon to consider slowing down. About 2 hours later, the sea made the decision for us and we tucked 2 reefs in the main and one in the Genoa (to about 110% LP). Winds were S about 12 to 16 with bumpy seas, and I don't like bumps.

In this fashion we passed the remainder of this first day at sea.

Hull YC MA: Wed 07 Jul - Sad Day, Happy Daze

The sailing problem as I see it is not so much getting there, as leaving there. We sailed into Hull exactly two weeks ago, almost to the hour. Since then we've had the good fortune to be welcomed into the lives and day-to-day activities of many folks in this town and nearby towns who, for reasons I cannot always fathom, just do it. They take you into their lives, their families, their confidences, almost as a matter of course. If you knew me you would never characterize me as "speechless." Just now I am speechless.

We will shortly be going offshore for a few days, trying for the Canadian Maritimes and some sightseeing there. The boat is ready and provisioned and the sails are bent on, but we cannot leave without mentioning a few folks at the Club who have borne the brunt of my visit.

Among the launch drivers are Chris, Mike, Brooke, Christian, Ned, and Nick. These are simply wonderful young people. Our stay would have been neither possible, nor as enjoyable, without the help of Club Steward Sue. Simply an outstanding person. Of course Club Commodore and New Jersey native Bill Schmid did his best to welcome the boat and crew and "show us a good time." He did so with relish.

Ralph and Nan, who came up with the idea of bringing Kerry Deare into Hull in the first place, are dear friends to whom we will always be grateful.

Finally there is the gang of ruffians known as Yoga Sailing. The group was established when the wives of several members formed a Tuesday evening yoga group. Obviously something had to be done with the husbands, and sending them off to sea seemed a good idea. Based on my sail with them last evening it was, and is, a good idea.

Here's to the derelicts of the sea. All of us.

Hull YC MA: Sun 04 Jul - Independence Day BBQ

July 4th, a Sunday, served up delicious food late in the day and delicious weather early in the day. We’d invited friends Nan and Ralph aboard for a pleasant sail among the Boston Harbor Islands (photo upper left). I was prepared for the excursion thanks to an earlier sail with friend Neil (http://yachtkerrydeare.blogspot.com/2010/06/sailing-lessons-fri-25-jun-sunny-light.html), and on this occasion I had the added benefit of two guests with quite a bit of local sailing knowledge.

Later the members of the Hull Yacht Club sponsored a July 4th BBQ on the club veranda featuring all the traditional goodies and much good company. I had the opportunity to present Club Commodore Bill Schmid (photo upper right) with an official if slightly worn SCA burgee (http://yachtkerrydeare.blogspot.com/2010/06/schmoozing-club-of-america.html and photo at left) in appreciation of the club’s marvelous hospitality to Sonia and me. Bill kindly added it to the club’s collection in the bar, and reciprocated with a Hull YC burgee for Kerry Deare’s collection. Although it depends upon one's point of view, I suspect we got the better deal.

The club BBQ was a fitting finale to Sonia's holiday in Boston and Hull. To ensure we were aware of this, the club committee on local miracles presented to us our personal commemorative rainbow (photo at right).

Hull YC MA: Sat 03 Jul – Flaming Lobstahs

Sonia and I had the very good fortune to be invited aboard the lobster boat Windermere to watch a part of the Fourth of July fireworks demonstrations. I say “a part” because in this neck of the woods fireworks demonstrations are a contact sport. The watch period is spread over several days and locals compete for best presentation. In the town of Hull the contests are so important that one block of neighbors competes against the next.



On Windermere, a Maine built boat with sweet lines and accommodations of yacht quality, Captain Peter Maloney is in his element. He's a superb mariner and fisherman whose experience ranges from yacht deliveries to professional fishing and beyond. We were among about 12 guests who were “forced” to enjoy soft-shell lobsters, a new experience for me and also for Sonia, who had until this evening never hazarded a lobster encounter, soft shelled or otherwise. We both loved it. When we arrived in the viewing area we rafted on three other lobstermen, sterns facing the fireworks barge, and watched over an hour of continuous pyrotechnics. Since fireworks are a favorite of Sonia, she was in heaven the entire evening. Meanwhile I kept right on the track of errant lobsters. Not a one got away.