To Shelburne Town NS: Sat 10 Jun - Dark, Damp, Friendly, Finally

We approached the entrance to Shelburne Harbor in thick damp fog and brisk southerly winds near midnight Friday. Off Cape Negro I picked up an outbound radar target who identified himself as fishing vessel Nanook and advised that there was no other outbound traffic between our positions and Shelburne Town, approximately 20 miles farther up. Three hours later at 0315, proceeding slowly under double-reefed main and slow diesel power in zero visibility with the wind astern at 15 to 18 knots, I encountered additional radar targets near McNutts Island to port. I was unable to raise the largest of these, who was probably f/v Nanook, busily engaged. The remaining "targets" also did not respond to VHF calls, but this was probably because they were in fact fishing buoys marking aquaculture gear, as I shortly discovered with our high intensity searchlight.

The main was handed off Sandy Point at 0400 and I noticed that we were gradually sailing out of the fog as we moved inland. This was a welcome sight after several days of no visibility, but it was still quite dark and a close watch was kept on nearby objects, moving or not. I called Canadian Coast Guard on my new international cell phone for clearance instructions, and they provided a telephone number for calling Customs directly. I decided to hold off on the call until we were secure further up harbor. This we soon were, picking up a mooring off the Shelburne Harbor Yacht Club (photo at left) at 0510 Atlantic Standard Time. We'd arrived safe and sound, but tired and damp, somewhat pleased with the boat's performance. However based on the "rules of sailing," the fun was just beginning.

After reviewing my information and confirming details of earlier visits to the Province by Kerry Deare, Customs decided that a physical vessel inspection was a good idea. This meant I'd have to go alongside at SHYC (photo at right) for boarding. I did so at 0630 and waited for Customs' scheduled arrival at 0900. Meanwhile the wind, previously docile, veered into the WSW and began to build. This meant that Kerry Deare, initially quite comfortable on the float, became pinned by the increasing winds. As the winds built into the twenties things were getting awkward. and by 0930 when Customs had still not arrived, the wind had arrived and was gusting to the low thirties. Since I did not have the option to move away from danger on the float, I spent this period of my remaining life contemplating the forthcoming tragic ending to an otherwise fine passage. We were going to die by sinking, next to a dock within sight of a safe haven, because (you guessed it) the captain must go down with the ship. I couldn't remember the exact phrasing but it went something like that.

However catastrophe was not on the agenda. Customs arrived and delivered a professional and friendly performance. I next enlisted about 10 club members who man-handled Kerry Deare off the float so I could return to a heavy and secure mooring in the harbor, clean up somewhat, and row in to visit my old friends Charlie and Kim Arcon and their 3 children, all of whom live in a historic house on the Sheburne waterfront. Our loud and chaotic reunion (photo at left) after an 8 year hiatus was exactly what I needed to feel welcomed back to this magic place in this wonderful part of the world.