At New Bedford: 01 - 04 Sep - Hurricane Warnings

New Bedford is itself an almost perfect natural harbor. It is large, deep, and well protected with easy access and a convenient central location. Since the 1960's when the massive hurricane gate system was added, it has become known as one of the most secure major harbors on the US East Coast. Among mariners it is axiomatic that New Bedford is the safest location in the area to seek refuge during bad weather. For these reasons and others, I made a special effort to arrive at New Bedford Harbor with time to spare in order to guarantee a secure berth.

The harbor (right photo) consists of New Bedford on the west bank of the Acushnet River, and Fairhaven on the east. Most commercial fishing activity is centered on the New Bedford waterfront, and the fishing fleet is definitely one to reckon with (photo below left). New Bedford may have the largest concentration of active fishing vessels in the world. Even if that is not the case, it seems so to a casual observer. There is an endless array of wharves and piers crowded with rugged and fierce looking fishing vessels of all shapes and sizes, mostly massive. Fairhaven on the opposite side of the Acushnet River also has its share of commercial vessels in addition to several large marine repair and service operations. Sprinkled among these commercial facilities are many businesses designed to serve recreational vessels, the heaviest concentration being on and around Pope's Island in the middle of the harbor. It's safe to say that if a vessel operator cannot get the job done here, it simply cannot be done.

While underway from Shelburne to New Bedford, I'd contacted friends Susan and Kirk ("Captain Kirk" at left) who have been cruising their yacht Arion along the US Northeast Coast this summer. I was both surprised and pleased to learn that they were then in nearby Cuttyhunk Harbor and they agreed to rendezvous with Kerry Deare in New Bedford and wait out the weather behind the secure hurricane gates. The plan was that Arion would secure to a mooring, Kerry Deare would secure at the Fairhaven Shipyard, and after preparing the boats for nasty weather we ourselves would spend Friday evening (03 September) safely tucked away in a hotel room ashore in New Bedford. This also meant we would have time to enjoy the sights, tastes, and sounds of New Bedford, the "Whaling City."

Thursday, 02 September, was filled with storm preparations and general maintenance on both yachts. Meanwhile the harbor was quickly filling with vessels of all types and sizes, and we were pleased to see among them the State of Delaware tall ship Kalmar Nyckel (http://www.kalmarnyckel.org/). She was nestled safely among the fishing fleet in a secure berth. Since my wife Sonia is a "Blue Hen" (i.e., University of Delaware graduate), I paid special attention to this vessel.

By the time we'd finished hurricane preparations late in the afternoon our appetites required immediate attention. The solution was Antonio's, a Portuguese restaurant in New Bedford that had the nod from everyone we asked. Both the service and the food lived up to expectations. We all spent one final night afloat and by Friday afternoon we'd moved ashore to a nearby hotel and were ready to explore New Bedford (at left, Susan and Kirk in "Tourist Mode"). The obvious first stop was the New Bedford Whaling Museum, the city's most popular attraction (right photo).

In our view the museum is a gem, particularly in light of its relatively small size. Architecturally and aesthetically, the designers just seemed to "get it right." There is something for everyone here, including a model of the famous Concordia yawl (photo left), a design well known to sailors and built nearby. The main hall of the museum (right photo) features several rare whale skeletons and an industrial style that somehow seemed perfect. By the way, if your taste runs to whale skeletons, this just might be the place (below).

By the next morning, Saturday, Hurricane Earl had passed through without major impact (we are pleased to note). I was struck once again by the apparent disappointment of several commentators who opined that the hurricane was "not all it could have been." I do not at all understand what these morons are talking about. Would they perhaps be satisfied with a few dozen yachts strewn along the beach, or maybe 17 senior citizens stranded and drowned on Nantucket? In any event while Kirk attended to details aboard Arion, Susan and I continued to collect Tourist Points in New Bedford. This we accomplished with a self-guided walking tour that lasted over 5 hours, beginning with a visit dockside to the Kalmar Nyckel (photo right).

Prior to the storm's passing the crew had secured all gear, sails, and equipment. Now that it was time to get back underway, those preparations had to be reversed, and on a vessel like this with miles of lines and cordage, this is no small task. All hands were put to work to get the job done (left photo). Susan did her part from the sidelines (photo upper right) by encouraging the crew to work harder and faster. She might have made a pretty good whaling captain in the day, and apparently others thought so also because in short order she and I were interviewed by a local radio reporter seeking our opinions on how things should be handled properly aboard ship (photo lower right). Of course we provided definitive answers to all his questions on whaling ship management, local restaurants, global warming, world hunger, tying a flying bowline knot, and a range of other vital issues.

Then it was off to the New Bedford visitors centers for an injection of Tourist Info. There are 2 centers in town. Located on the waterfront, the New Bedford Visitors Centers provides information on water-related activities, tours, the waterfront itself, the commercial fishing activities that dominate the immediate area, and so on. When we visited we spoke with Rihjui, a friendly and helpful park official from Ghana (photo left), who loaded us up with useful information. Thusly armed we proceed into the restored part of New Bedford and immediately encountered two women dressed in period costume (right photo) who immediately brought us up to date on the latest New Bedford gossip. Latest that is, if you consider the year 1836 recent. These two remained strictly in character despite my attempts to break the spell. And a magic spell it was for both Susan and me.

We continued our walking tour into the restored sections of New Bedford, enjoying some of the more stately buildings as we went along. Our goal was the collection of stately residences centered on New Bedford's County Street, the location that many of the town's whaling and business elite had chosen for their elaborate homes. The jewel of this collection, the Rotch-Jones-Duff House and Garden Museum, is discussed separately below. What struck both Susan and me about this collection of homes was the sheer number of fully restored masterpieces available to view. Even though we spent nearly 2 full hours walking on, in and around County Street, we barely scraped the surface. There is much available online about these buildings so I will post only a few selected photos. The choices are not easy.

*****

The Rotch-Jones-Duff House (photos left, right, and below) is the only County Street mansion open to the public. Susan had decided well in advance that it was a must-see item and she was quite correct. The mansion was built in 1834 for the whaling merchant William Rotch, Jr. It is in Greek Revival style and is often described as the best example of the "brave houses and flowery gardens" described by Herman Melville in Moby-Dick. The museum chronicles 150 years in the economic and social evolution of the city as reflected in the residencies of 3 succeeding families, the Rotch, Jones, and Duff families. Photography is forbidden inside the building, so we can show only a few views of the gardens and the exterior of the building. When Susan and I discussed the tour afterwards, we both agreed that it was a "Triumph of Modern Nautical Tourism." We hope you agree.