To New Bedford MA: 28 - 31 Aug - Stateside Again

We departed Shelburne Harbor 0830 Saturday, 28 August, bound for Provincetown MA. According to the chart this was to be a 260 NM leg. We'd been pinned down in Shelburne by a series of offshore depressions and tropical cyclones since 22 August and it was beginning to seem that we'd shortly be granted Canadian citizenship by default. We finally identified a window of several days with fair or light winds that allowed passage to P-Town, so off we went.

Jean and Josiane on Kurika were directly ahead of Kerry Deare as we both motored the 10 or so miles down harbor to the Atlantic Ocean. My final view of these close friends was as Kurika passed the Cape Roseway lighthouse on McNutts Island, heading to sea (photo left). They were headed to Portland ME and all my efforts to lure them to the MA coast had been unsuccessful. It seemed I would not again have the pleasure of their company.

The first obstacle one encounters when sailing west on this route is Cape Sable. The Cape has a reputation for turbulent waters, particularly when the 2 to 4 knot current there is opposed to the wind. All the cruising guides and pilot books recommend that mariners stay well offshore in this area and I planned to do just that. I'd rounded this cape several times in the past without issue, but of course there's a first time for everything and this was that time. Despite a forecast of light winds and calm seas, the NW wind came up with authority at 1300, attaining a speed of 25 to 30 knots. Ahead I could just make out Kurika under all plain sail smashing to weather and doing well. Little Kerry Deare however had other ideas and in short order we were hove to under double-reefed main with the helm down, leisurely waiting for the wind to pipe down. The old man just didn't want to bounce all that much. We got underway again at about 1700 (now using EDT).

A short time later I spoke the 154 foot schooner Meteor bound for Maine (photo at left by Kirk on Arion). I wanted to inform her captain that his AIS signal was broadcasting his destination as Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, which was obviously incorrect based on his course and speed. This is one of several instances on this cruise when transmitted AIS data did not correspond to a vessel's actual intentions. Meteor's skipper said he would investigate.

We continued motor sailing into light airs on relatively calm seas for the next 38 hours without incident or interruption, shutting down occassionally to check fluids, transfer fuel, and check systems. Then, while resting below about 60 NM east of the tip of Cape Cod, I was startled to learn we had a passenger. A small bird, possibly a sparrow, had landed on Kerry Deare for a rest and was flying around the main cabin (photo at right). During the visit the bird made a point of checking out the accommodation below decks several times and left his personal calling card on the cabin sole. Since I didn't want to tempt fate, the mess remained in place until we were securely moored at our final destination. After an hour or so he decided he didn't like sailing all that much and flew off.

After 55 hours underway I finally picked up the signature of Cape Cod on the 16 mile radar range. An hour later I was able to make cell phone contact with my wife Sonia and let her know we were getting close to home, and it was during this call that she gave me the latest weather advisory on offshore tropical cyclones. We'd been out of radio contact for a few days this was very important information that helped shape our course of action for the rest of this leg.

The situation wasn't pretty. There were at least 2 and possibly 3 tropical systems offshore (Earl, Fiona and Gaston) that gave every evidence of heading in our direction, so finding a safe refuge was the next step. Although I'd been off soundings for well over two days and had planned a rest stop in Provincetown, I decided to continue on through the night, transit the Cape Cod Canal when the current went favorable at 0200 local, and head directly for New Bedford MA, one of the most secure harbors on the US East Coast. This decision added 40 or so NM to the leg, for a total of roughly 300 NM from Shelburfne to New Bedford via the Canal.

I entered the Canal at almost exactly 0200 31 August, a Tuesday morning, about 64 hours out from Shelburne. As predicted the tide was just going favorable and we were soon riding the current and making 7 to 8 knots over the bottom. The Canal at night is a mysterious and quiet place and I used the full array of electronics to keep Kerry Deare lined up down the middle of the route. Fortunately there was no commercial traffic to worry us, and we exited the Canal at 0330 into Buzzards Bay. We were greeted by a light northerly, a perfect breeze to sail for New Bedford. That we promptly did, finally shutting down the diesel after far too many hours of constant running. Things were looking up.

At 0730 we passed through the famous gates that guard New Bedford and Fairhaven from hurricanes and tropical systems. We were secured alongside at Fairhaven Shipyard at 0800, 31 August, almost exactly 3 days out of Shelburne. After a long and uneventful passage and safe arrival stateside, a welcome rest for both Kerry Deare and me was in store.