Francois NL: 09 Aug – Isolated Pleasures

We were underway from Facheux Bay at first light, 0540 Monday morning, hoping to outfox the southerly winds I expected. The distance to Francois (remember, “france-ways”) is 22 NM directly into the prevailing winds and along this coast, with or without wind, there is a persistent swell that usually means holding on to something the entire way. Such was the case, but we were willing to endure because Francois is a special destination.

One hundred and thirteen people live in this true out-port and the only way in or out is by coastal ferry. Francois, located in a well protected fjord with a boisterous stream running through the village, is the farthest inhabited place from a highway in Atlantic Canada. The setting is dramatic, surrounded by towering rock walls and a unique rock called The Friar (photo below).



Back at sea, we finally settled into the “regime” of Number Three genoa and the Volvo ticking over, and surprisingly we were making nearly 6 knots through the water. In a strange sense the ride seemed almost comfortable, but that may have been because I knew our speed was good. By 1055 local I was tied alongside the fishermen’s float with help from Alex, a young man from François. I settled down the boat and wandered up to the fishing wharf to meet-and-greet and find out about the commotion underway. A catch was being unloaded and weighed (photos left and right), and I was struck by the smooth precision of all concerned. There was no idle chatter and each person knew what had to be done and the best way to do it. Any modern business would benefit from the example set on the wharf.

A short while later I heard a skiff landing at the head of the wharf and I volunteered to take a line. There I met Brey, her husband Mark, friend Rick, and their border collie/german shepherd mix "Chiquita." They hail from near Toronto and have purchased cottages in Francois. These friendly folks have in a the space of two years established close friendships with Francois residents, and that speaks highly of both sides. It wasn’t long before Brey and Mark suggested I join them and their two daughters and the children’s friends for dinner up the “hill.” That was when I remembered the 5 pound fresh trout hiding in Kerry Deare’s icebox.

The result was an expansive dinner (photo right), featuring pasta with hearty sausage and beef, fresh trout, special deserts baked by daughter Celine (at left), and … well, an endless supply of good food and good fun. The evening was memorable but since my day had started at 0200, I soon realized I was tired enough to head for home. A fine day indeed.