To Harbor Breton: 06 Aug – Warm Start, Warm Finish

Friday 06 Aug was the day to move to Harbor Breton, about 24 NM distant to the NW. Since the distance was short, I spent the early morning preparing for sea and treating myself to a warm breakfast and a hot shower. “Sharon’s Nook" (photo left),” owned by Sharon and husband Jack (at right), is the

source for the latest gossip, a place to meet fishermen and compare notes (center above), and the right location for a Newfoundland breakfast. It was there I purchased a chart of wrecks along the Newfoundland coast, despite the fact that carrying this item on board gives me the jitters.

Next over to the Harbor Supervisor’s office where Levi Matthews tallied my bill ($20 CD for two nights) and even included a hot shower in the price. He probably took mercy on my “drowned-rat” appearance because Philip and Sharon said they’d paid $6 CD each for the pleasure. Levi was more than helpful during this visit, having met Kerry Deare at the wharf, arranged for ice (150 pounds at no charge), and kept me informed of goings and comings that affect the cruise. He furnished much of the Newfoundland hospitality I’d heard about.

At 0950 it was out to Harbor Breton in SE to SW winds that often approached 20 knots. The rain also set in with some determination, but the combination of rain and wind wasn’t troublesome because I stayed below while the yacht ran down under Number Three genoa alone, the diesel just kicking over, the autopilot doing the steering, and the awning keeping the rain at bay. We were warm and dry the entire time although the same cannot be said for anyone above decks (I didn’t hear any footsteps though, and I noticed that Polo, who doesn’t like rain, stayed in his perch and rested). Eventually visibility closed down to zero but not before we passed the Sagona Islands (photo left) close aboard to port.

The approach to Harbor Breton is fairly easy and that was a comfort in zero visibility during our radar entry. It also appeared that the GPS position was very good despite the fact that the GPS does not correspond to printed charts well along this coast. We proceeded at reduced speed and by 1540 were alongside Jensen’s Wharf in zero visibility, pouring rain, and calm winds (photo right). Good to be in port regardless of conditions.

The first thing on tap after settling the ship was to go ashore and wander, and I immediately encountered the biggest local attraction, Sunny Cottage (photo left). This Queen Anne style building is now a museum but was originally the home of a local merchant. My guide Samantha (photo right) provided a lively tour that included the “Resettlement Room (photo below).” This display documents the government-mandated movement of many Newfoundland families from remote out port communities to more centralized locations during the 1960’s and 1970’s. In many cases they moved their homes also, floating them to new locations. Samantha also suggested that I would enjoy the Pea Soup lunch next day at the cottage. She was correct.